Visiting Portugal: Itinerary for “Slow Travel”

One of the best places to visit in Europe is a unique blend of old world charm and modern convenience. It’s also extremely affordable. What country is that? It’s Portugal!

Despite its small size, this diverse country has a little bit of everything. Whether you have a week or 3 months, you won’t run out of things to do in Portugal. We spent more than 2 months exploring Portugal’s vibrant cities and beautiful coastlines, and we can’t wait to return!

Here’s a taste of our experience to help you plan your Portugal itinerary.

Slow Travel in Portugal

First of all, what is slow travel? We also call it “local style” travel, and it’s how we spend most of our time when traveling overseas. For us, it means we focus on experiencing what it’s like to live in the places we visit, so we stay in short-term apartments rather than hotels.

We seldom visit more than a few major tourist attractions in an area, because we prefer to simply enjoy day-to-day living.

| Related Reading: This American Retired to Portugal at Age 50

Here are the places we visited in Portugal and a few highlights from each location. At the end, you will find more details about the logistics of travel to and within Portugal.

First Stop: Porto

Although Portugal is quite small by American standards (you could drive the length of the entire country from north to south in about 6 hours), Porto is considered “Northern Portugal.” Indeed, it has different weather and a completely different vibe from Lisbon and Algarve, the other main areas we visited.

We arrived in mid-March and were quite lucky with the weather; virtually every single day was bright sunshine. Normally, we were told, March is rainy season, and Porto is known for its frequent morning fog.

We spent our first week in an apartment in the popular Ribeira neighborhood (on the Douro river), very close to many of the major sites in the “old city.”

As we often do when visiting a city for the first time, we took a hop-on, hop-off bus tour to get the lay of the land. The tour helped us identify places we wanted to spend more time.

The top place that caught our attention was the beautiful, rugged coastline and beaches in the neighborhood called Foz do Douro. Within a couple days of arriving in Porto, we decided to extend our stay so we could spend time in that neighborhood by the beach, and we found a fantastic deal on a Foz apartment.

In total, our stay in Porto was almost 2 weeks, and it was divided into two distinct phases. During our first week, we were much more ambitious with our touring, and we explored the city daily.

Once we moved to Foz, we mostly enjoyed the coastline and the neighborhood. It has a much more “local” feel than the old city of Porto and is less crowded.

Things to Do in Porto

Here are a few things to see and do in Porto that we recommend:

Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus Tour

The hop-on, hop-off bus tour gives you a great overview of the entire Porto area, and I recommend doing it your first day in Porto. The two-day pass is a good choice because it allows you to take your time. If you get off and want to spend a few hours in one spot (Foz do Douro, for example!), you can pick up where you left off the next day.

An even better deal is the package that includes the Hop-On, Hop-Off bus plus a Douro river cruise and port wine cellar tour. At only a few dollars more per ticket than the bus-only tour, it’s a good value.

Click here to reserve the package tour.

Livraria Lello

This local landmark tops many lists of the world’s most beautiful bookstores. It’s famous for its architecture and décor. Livraria Lello is also said to be the inspiration for the Harry Potter series (author J.K. Rowling lived in Porto for several years).

If you visit, I recommend going on a weekday as soon as the store opens to avoid the crowds. You must purchase a voucher for €5 to enter the store, but the amount is credited to your purchase if you buy a book.

Wine Cellar Tour

A visit to Porto would not be complete without tasting port wine. We did the tour through the cellars of Ferreira and tasted three of their delicious wines. Of course, we also bought a couple bottles!

Get more bang for your buck by doing this tour instead, which includes a 3-hour walking tour and tastings at three different wineries.

Enoteca 17-56

One of our most memorable experiences in Porto was at this winery, restaurant, and museum. We stumbled upon it while waiting for Ferreira to open. My husband saw the words “cigar club” and wanted to check it out, and we were glad we did!

They not only have a great cigar lounge, where you can order small plates of food and drinks, but the restaurant is top notch, especially for the price. The chef makes very creative dishes that are delicious and beautifully-presented.

Parque da Cidade do Porto

The largest urban park in Portugal is located at the western end of Porto. It’s full of small lakes and winding, shady trails, making it the perfect place to exercise, stroll, or picnic.

The park has multiple entrances, one of which connects to the oceanfront path.

Casa Vasco

This restaurant was around the corner from our apartment in Foz, and it was one of our favorite restaurants in Portugal. They had an interesting mix of food that was far different from what we saw on most menus, and everything we tried was delicious.

Casa Vasco is definitely a “locals” place and a great find if you’re in the neighborhood.

Douro Valley Wine Tour

A short day trip from Porto is the Douro Valley, Portugal’s famous wine region. There are hundreds of wineries in the Douro Valley, and this stunning region of northern Portugal was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.

An organized tour is the best way to see this area so that you can leave the driving to someone else! This one offers a full day experience! Enjoy a tour and tasting of delicious ports, wines, and olive oils. Then take a relaxing cruise on the Douro River followed by lunch overlooking the Valley.

Click here to reserve your spot!

Next Stop: Lisbon and Costa da Caparica

In recent years, Lisbon has become one of the most popular cities in Europe, and with good reason. Picture a much less expensive version of San Francisco, but with more sun! It even has a bridge, Ponte 25 de Abril, that is almost an exact replica of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Besides the resemblance to San Fran, Lisbon boasts all the charm of a major European city: many museums, castles, and historic sites; tons of cafes and restaurants representing cuisines from around the world, and dozens of small neighborhoods, each with its own character and vibe.

We spent 5 days in Lisbon. We purposely chose an apartment in a residential area outside of the main tourist neighborhoods to get the local feel. Buying groceries at the supermarket, hanging out in a local pastelaria, and doing our morning workout in the nearby park were some of the fun ways we got a window into life in Lisbon.

(Of course, we also did our usual Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tour to see the highlights of the city!)

From there, we were in search of fewer crowds and more beach, so we moved to a little town called Costa da Caparica. We had never heard of it until we spotted it on the map.

Caparica is across the river from Lisbon and only about a 20-minute ride by car, but it feels like a world away. It’s primarily a surfing town, and the main appeals of Caparica are its waves and its 15-mile stretch of wide, flat, uninterrupted beach.

We loved our little Caparica apartment, which was a block from Costa da Caparica beach and very affordable, so we hunkered down for more than a month!

Day Trips from the Lisbon Area

We took numerous day trips while staying in the Lisbon area, and here are a few I recommend:

Cascais

This gorgeous resort town is about 30 minutes outside of Lisbon. It has quaint beaches, stunning scenery, and myriad shops and restaurants. The train from downtown Lisbon (€2.25) runs along the coastline with breathtaking views the entire way!

Sintra

One of the most popular day trips from Lisbon, Sintra is a must-see. It’s most famous for its hilltop castle, the Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace). A visit to Sintra should include a tour or the castle and gardens and time to have lunch in Sintra’s historic center. Wear good walking shoes!

If you’re based in Lisbon, you can take a full-day tour that includes both Cascais and Sintra. Go2Lisbon offers small group tours that give you free time to explore on your own. Reserve your spot now, and you can cancel or make changes if you need to.

Peniche

A laid-back town known primarily for surfing, Peniche is about 75 minutes north of Lisbon along the coast. Even if you don’t surf, visit Peniche for the incredible views and fresh seafood.

One site near Peniche that we regret not visiting is the Berlengas Islands, only 10 km off the coast. The São João Baptista Fort on the main island is considered one of the most beautiful in Portugal, and the nature preserve is an excellent place to kayak or snorkel. A tour like this one from Lisbon hits all of the highlights.

Vinhos Cortém Winery

Our visit to this winery was one of our favorite days in Portugal. We enjoyed an incredible tasting featuring 10 wines paired with delicious cheese, olives, and homemade appetizers.

The tasting was conducted in the winery’s lovely dining room, where we sat for more than 3 hours enjoying stories about the wine and vineyard while chatting with other guests.

The owners of this small winery – Christopher Price, an Englishman, and his German wife, Helga – made the experience magical, and Helga’s cooking was amazing!

When you visit this winery, use public transportation so that you can indulge in the tastings. Take the bus from Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha (70 min) and take an Uber to Cortém from the bus station.

Ribeira do Cavalo

This secluded beach is in the town of Sesimbre, about 45 minutes south of Lisbon. It requires a 30-minute hike down a rocky cliff to get there, but it’s well worth the effort! Wear good hiking shoes (no flip-flops) and arrive in the morning when there are few other people.

While you can find tours from Lisbon that include a visit to Ribeira do Cavalo, I recommend renting a car and visiting on your own. The beach is quite small, and if you visit with a tour, you will bring the crowds with you.

Afterwards, have lunch at Tasca do Isaías, a locals’ favorite where you choose your meal from the list of freshly-caught fish on their daily menu. They cook it on their outdoor grill, and you eat at the communal tables in their small, bustling restaurant.

Final Stop: Quarteira (Algarve)

We spent our last week in Portugal in Quarteira, a beach town in the famous Algarve region.

| Related Reading: The Best Towns in Algarve

Our apartment was one of our all-time favorites that we’ve rented while traveling, and we spent much of our time relaxing on the terrace, enjoying the incredible view.

Things to Do in Algarve

Here are a couple highlights from our time in Algarve:

Ponta da Piedade

The dramatic cliffs and caves of Ponta da Piedade, located in the town of Lagos on one of Algarve’s best beaches, are a must-see. Our 75-minute small boat tour of the caves and grottos was one of the highlights of our visit to Algarve.

There are dozens of other amazing tours to explore Algarve, whether you want to kayak, snorkel, or search for dolphins. With more time, we would have done several other excursions.

Explore the options, and reserve your spots in advance!

The Cape of St. Vincent

This is the southwestern-most point in Europe and was once thought to be the edge of the world. It’s well worth a visit to see the stunning views and crystal blue water. Bring your camera and a windbreaker!

Portugal Travel Tips

Based on our 2+ months in Portugal, here’s what you should know before you go.

Connectivity/WiFi

Free WiFi is everywhere in Portugal. You don’t need to worry about purchasing a SIM card or using your cell phone carrier’s international plan while you’re here. You can communicate using WhatsApp, Skype, or other free apps.

It’s easy, because most restaurants, cafes, and even many stores have their own WiFi network and supply the password to customers. Make sure you use a Virtual Private Network (VPN) to secure your connection and protect your privacy (we use TunnelBear)!

Money & Banking

You may use cash more often in Portugal than in other Western European countries, especially when you’re outside of Lisbon. Many smaller restaurants and stores don’t accept foreign credit cards.

Plan ahead and withdraw cash from a bank ATM. You can find them in many grocery stores, train stations, shopping centers, and of course, attached to a bank itself.

Avoid Euronet ATMs, which are very prevalent, but charge a high fee. If you must use one of these ATMs, don’t accept their offer to convert your transaction to USD. They will give you a bad exchange rate, and the conversion has no benefit to you.

Restaurants

Many restaurants have one or more appetizers on the table when you sit down. Some have only bread and butter, while others offer more substantial dishes, such as calamari or cod fritters.

Those appetizers are not free, and if you eat anything, you will see the charge on your bill. When you sit down, tell the server to remove whatever you don’t want.

Tipping waitstaff is not customary in Portugal. If you particularly enjoyed the meal or service, leave a few coins, but anything more is unnecessary.

Public Transportation Within Portugal

We traveled by train from Porto to Lisbon and by bus from Lisbon to Algarve. Both modes of transport were clean, efficient, and relatively inexpensive, although prices may vary, depending on how early you book.

The bus is a good option when traveling to smaller cities, because it has many different routes and may drop you closer to your destination.

Use the Omio website or app to search both train and bus schedules and to purchase tickets.

Renting a Car in Portugal: Tips and Cautions

Having a rental car in Portugal makes it much easier to explore smaller towns within a region. We rented cars for several days to visit places within the Lisbon area and during our week in Algarve. We paid between $9 and $15/day.

We found cheap car rentals in Portugal by searching at the nearest airport. In contrast to how rental car prices work in the U.S., Portuguese rental cars are typically cheaper near the airport than in city centers.

Warning: rental car companies in Portugal use high-pressure sales techniques to convince you to buy their collision damage waiver (CDW), which often costs more than the daily rental rate. If you have other insurance (ours was through our credit card), decline the CDW, regardless of the fear tactics they use.

Portuguese rental car companies may require written proof of other coverage, and they may still place a very large hold on your credit card. Both times we rented a car, the companies removed the hold even before we returned the vehicle.

If you decline the CDW, do a very thorough inspection of the vehicle and take pictures of any damage before you sign off on the contract.

Finally, Portugal has an electronic toll system throughout the country. In some toll locations, there is no option to pay manually with cash/card; you simply drive under the toll and it records your license plate. Trying to pay the tolls after you’ve incurred them can be inconvenient and costly; rental car companies may charge steep administrative fees.

When picking up your rental car, you can choose to rent a “Via Verde” transponder to pay toll charges automatically. This is definitely a convenient device to have while driving in Portugal, but it shouldn’t cost more than a couple Euro per day. Click here to learn more about Portugal’s toll system.

Language and Communication

You can easily get by in Portugal without speaking Portuguese. Most people speak English very well, and in our experience, were extraordinarily friendly and helpful. Menus are usually available in English, and you will find a lot of American movies and programs on TV in their original versions (with Portuguese subtitles).

Get a Free Stopover in Porto or Lisbon

The best way to fly to Portugal is on TAP Air Portugal. TAP is Portugal’s national airline, and in our experience, they offer great service (including a substantial snack, even in Economy) with very competitive prices.

Of course, I highly recommend that you devote an entire vacation to visiting Portugal. But if you’re headed elsewhere in Europe, you can still spend up to 5 days in this incredible country at no extra charge using TAP’s stopover program.

Once you’ve had a small taste of Portugal, I promise you will want to return for a longer visit!

Ready to Go to Portugal?

After staying more than 2 months, we still didn’t see everything that Portugal has to offer, and we will definitely be back! There are many vineyards, mountains, fishing villages, and beaches yet to be explored.

No matter what you seek in a destination, Portugal has something for you at a great price. Don’t forget to write and tell us about your adventure!

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